Slow Going
This was the first Saturday in many that I had difficulty getting vertical. Everytime I counted down (three, two, one, ready go…) I wasn’t ready (I never know whether to go on the ‘one’ or the ‘go’). But when I looked at the mobile flashing 9:52, I had to get serious about this getting up thing. At the theater last night, Kasia reminded me that she wanted us over for a lunch-cooking gathering. In the meantime, I had agreed to have lunch with Carolyn before playing volleyball on the Ilha at 2p. To cover up my shabby planning (didn’t really think the cooking date would come through), I asked to bring Carolyn along, and somehow it worked. But, as I’ve only met her once (and she’s a Brit!), I wasn’t sure that she would welcome such a change of plans. So, I procrastinated until 10:18 to make the call. Sheepishly, I suggest an ‘even better alternative’ to our spending loads of money at a restaurant on the Ilha. And, sheepishly, she agreed. I had a whole hour before I had to start walking to her flat (along the Marginal in the middle of the day - it’s fine). So, I did my first girly thing since arriving in Luanda (you can ask me if you care to know…).
I scooted out the door with my backpack loaded and ready for a full day. Half way down the Ilha, I realised that I had packed an uninflated volleyball but not the pump. Lame. Anyway, too late to turn around now. After the brisk walk, I arrive at Carolyn’s flat - the most beautiful one I’ve seen so far. It’s brand new, comfortable, bright and fully secured. And, as she later told me, a truckload of cash ($8K) to rent. But then again, like most expats in Angola (except the UN-ers), her company has taken care of housing (and everything!) for her and her staff of 50 consultants.
The Joy of Cooking
Anyway, her driver takes us directly to Kasia’s where she and Giovanna have already started cooking the arroz con frango (chicken) dish. I love such occasions - friends getting together with no schedule, making a meal, having some drinks, chatting and laughing. There’s no better way to pass time. Kasia and I collaborate on a mixed seafood with wine dish and set the table while Giovanna was getting the main dish ready for the long simmer. It was a lovely table (see above!) and we enjoyed our starters of garbanzo salad (so good and simple!) and the seafood mezcla.
And, just as we are serving the main dish, Daniel arrives. He looks familiar but I can’t place him…..until just after we finish the meal and he pulls out his guitar and starts to play and sing. Ahhh-ha!!! This was the voice that I totally fell in love with last night at the theater! So clean, soulful, earthy. And, I find that such things happen more often outside of the US - where circles are small, so that there is not much separation between the watcher and those being watched. It was a lovely end to a lovely meal. Then came the dessert - the best I’ve had so far in Luanda. It was a marble cake with chocolate frosting made by the cleaning woman of Kasia, and some strawberry ice cream. So good!!
The House with no Roof
We pile into a few cars and take a field trip to my potential house on the Ilha. We pass by the volleyball courts on the beach, where I am happy to see Martyna and her gang still playing. I’ll join them just as soon as my friends see this place. We pull up and luckily the family is at home to show us their house. After lots of chatting back and forth (I let Kasia and Ian ask the questions in Portuguese), they all agree that the place has so much potential-could be excellent. But, that the roof must be done properly in order to avoid problemas once the rainy season starts. And, apparently, when it rains, it REALLY RAINS in Luanda. So, we agreed that I would bring my friend’s husband (Gabriella’s husband does construction) to see the place, give another estimate of time and cost to make the roof solid and leak-proof. I feel much better now, and thank them for confirming my ambiguity about the place.
$10 Cauliflower
We pass by the VB courts once more and find them empty (they even took the nets!). Alas, I have yet to play a game, but it was important to see the house and have a wonderful meal today. Volleyball will have to wait for another Saturday. I accompany Carolyn to the South African market in town, and I’m in some sort of food shopping heaven. They’ve got beautiful produce and just cool stuff, like Lambic (yes, Rachel lambic!!), Toblerone, brie, and lots and lots of soy products. I notice that the place is full of expat types (I suppose they’re the ones who can afford to pay $10 for cauliflower…).
By the time I go through the checkout, my energy’s depleted and I want to be at home. It doesn’t take long to get back to the Marginal, and after the long haul up the stairs, I am treated to a lovely view of dusk on the Bahia. Luanda is a place of stark contrasts - rich and poor, dirty and lovely, gaudy and simple, joyful and maddening, passionate and sullen.
Tonight, I’m going to read, write and rest (forget ‘rithmetic…). I hope you enjoy your Saturday as I have mine, wherever you are in the world! xCelina
